Peloponnese for advanced level travelers

Those who are visiting Greece for the first time with their motorhome can easily fit into the category of happy-go-lucky holidaymakers. The “don’t miss” spots and attractions are so many and so different from each other that there will be no room for second thoughts. When the options are so varied and tempting, it shouldn’t be hard to decide. The ride seems to be predetermined: you just have to follow the route from one top destination to another.

It is no coincidence then that most ‘newbies’ choose Peloponnese for their first motorhome trip. Cultural monuments, world heritage sites, superb beaches, in brief some of the most famous attractions of the country are situated in this peninsula, in a distance of few hundreds or less kilometres. Images that you thought you would see only on travel magazines, after 10 days of wandering, will be stored in your own camera.

The real adventure begins the third or fourth time you disembark at the port of Patras. While the newcomers will be making their way to Olympia or Monemvasia or Elafonissos, you’ll drive up to discover hidden treasures. These are few tips that may help you.

Petrified palm forest (Neapoli, Laconia)

Imagine a lunar landscape with secluded coves, turquoise waters and totem-like stones. What actually seems to be man-made sculptures some million years ago used to be a forest of palm and coniferous trees. The ancient woods were petrified due to rising sea levels and turned gradually into exhibits in this open-air Museum of prehistoric flora.

Saint Theodora church (Vasta, Arcadia)

People of faith will assure you that it’s a miracle. People of science will confirm that it’s truly a wonder, if not of God or Saint Theodora, of Mother Nature. In both cases it’s hard to explain how it’s possible that 17 trees are growing on the roof of this tiny 12th century church! The mystery is enhanced when you realize the weight of each tree (approx. 1 ton , which increases when it rains), the height (more or less 20 m.) and the fact that in the church interiors there is no visible sign of roots neither on the roof nor in the walls.

According to the legend, Saint Theodora was a martyr who, while dying, asked God: “May my body become a church, my blood a river, and my hair a forest” There is no scientific explanation for the phenomenon except that somehow during the centuries the stone structure was turned into a ‘living body’.

The church is situated in a deep forest 30 km west of Megalopolis. The area is ideal for hiking and mountain biking; nearby there is a fully operational water-mill open to visitors.

Geraki Castle (Laconia)

This castle is rarely included in the tourist guides, but certainly rewards those few who visit it. Even if you are not fan of military architecture and medieval fortifications you will enjoy the breathtaking view over the Myrtoo pelagos and the Taygetos mountain while wandering through the cobbled streets and visiting churches with frescoes and residential buildings.

The castle was built in 1209 by a French named Guy de Nivelet and for centuries it was one of the most important fortified towns of Peloponnese, often called “Little Mystras”. The Geraki castle doesn’t lack in anything except visitors.

The site is open daily from 8.00 – 15.00 with free entrance. The access is relatively easy (though uphill) and you can park very close to the archaeological site.

Heraion – Limni Vouliagmenis (Corinthia)

Most motorhome owners stay at Lake Vouliagmeni (actually a lagoon as it communicates with the waters of the Corinthian Gulf via a channel) where during the summer a small colony is formed. The main attractions here are the calm, warm water, the relaxed family atmosphere plus some fish tavernas. And an ancient temple right next to the sea that few seem to know!

You can find it if you walk up to the edge of the promontory, 2 km west of the lake. At the end of the road (where you’ll see a stone-built lighthouse too) the path goes downhill where you’ll reach the temple ofHera. There is no fence around the archaeological site; the ruins (temple, altars, Agora, reservoirs) are scattered all around the tiny bay with its blue waters. I cannot think of many other places where you can literally have a swim next to archaeological finds!

Article by Massimo Pizzocaro who is an Italian photojournalist specializing in travel reportage and administrator site camperistas.com that gives information about traveling with motorhomes.

The petrified trunks are scattered throughout the coastline south of Neapolis at the end of the eastern leg of the Peloponnese. The most impressive ones are at the beaches of Koraka and Agia Marinawhere the Geopark Visitor Center is located with information and hiking trails. Although the road toAgia Marina is unpaved, it is fairly good.

Extra bonus: this outstanding/weird place is not popular even amongst locals!

Greece as a film location

As a child, I used to visit Greece almost every summer holiday. My mother’s side of the family — numerous aunts, uncles, cousins and my grandmother — would descend on Cape Sounion, where we’d stay in several villas for almost a month. We’d swim and snorkel in the mornings, have long lunches, read during forced siestas, then go out at night to the local tavernas. It was a magical experience and one that has stayed with me all my life.

It was during these holidays that I developed my passion for Greek mythology and archeology. There was nothing I enjoyed more than sitting among the rocks and reading about the country’s extraordinary history and culture. Back in England I’d do the same, devouring every book I could find in anticipation of the next visit.

My love affair with the country continued into adulthood. I took my own children on holiday to Athens andCrete and it was there that I started to dream about adapting Patricia Highsmith’s Greek set thriller,The Two Faces of January, into a film.

I combined holidays with research, visiting many of the sites and locations that later ended up in the film. Eventually the holidays turned into work trips as shooting approached. While it was expensive to film in Crete I thought it was crucial to the telling of the story and the authenticity of the world. The rugged hills and cliffs of the island are unique and even though we looked for alternatives in other countries, nothing matched the sheer beauty and savagery of the ‘white mountains’ of Crete.

Crete was my favourite location in the film. During pre- production I had the opportunity to scour the island in search of ideal locations. The city of Chania was a revelation. I never imagined we’d find somewhere that still had so much of its 1960’s charm and atmosphere intact. My brilliant production crew did a fantastic job of recreating the city in 1962, but much of what we used was already there.

Chania was also my favourite location outside of filming. Our crew of over a hundred people stayed in various hotels and guest houses in the city and then literally walked to work. After filming we’d disperse to different bars and restaurants and enjoy the city all over again. Despite spending over a month there, many of the crew have since returned for their holidays.

Athens was also a city I loved. Nobody had been allowed to film a movie in the Acropolis for over twenty years but the authorities kindly allowed us two days to shoot there. It was an extraordinary experience. While we were filming in the Parthenon there must have been at least three or four hundred tourists watching just out of shot. They were very gracious and patient too, waiting for us to finish before they continued on their guided tours.

I remember we finished filming after the Acropolis complex closed. The crew had packed and left and I found myself alone on this wondrous hill with its magnificent temples and history. I spent a good half hour up there on my own, thinking how privileged I was to be able to film there but also to have the whole place to myself. In many ways it encapsulated my experience of shooting this film. It was not just work but another chance to discover the country I loved. The Two Faces of January is first and foremost a thriller but it is also my attempt to capture the magic and power that Greece has exerted on me since I was a child.

Cultivate your mind in Greece

Holidays can be about more than just relaxation. Travel itself leads to open mindedness, if we go to new and challenging places.  However holidays can be the perfect opportunity to learn something new and to cultivate the mind. Every new skill enriches us and makes our lives more enjoyable. Whether it is art, new languages, writing or the skill of thinking and reasoning, each brings a new dimension to our personalities, allows us to get to know ourselves better and ignites our passions. Let’s look at just a few possibilities in Greece:

Sculpting & painting

Greece has a long sculpting tradition and its heritage has had a profound effect throughout the ages. Even Michelangelo is said to have been inspired by its styles! You don’t have to be a sculptor or even an artist. Maybe you enjoyed art at school but are now definitely rusty? Consider taking a holiday combined with a few sculpting or painting lessons this summer.

Philosophy

Everybody knows the names of Socrates, Plato, Aristotle and Sappho. Not to mention Zorba the Greek and Kazantzakis. But what did all these philosophers actually say? Why are they so famous?

What happens when you visit Greece and follow the basic steps of her philosophers? Ruins with boring stones, turn into fascinating, intelligent and romantic scenery. It’s possible to relax and strengthen your mind at the same time!

Writing

Writing retreats in Greece are perfect for writers, thinkers and the dilettanti. With beautiful surroundings inspiration often comes and if it does not you can always invoke the Greek Muses or simply invite them to write ‘through’ you!

Medieval Greece

Greece's medieval history is dominated by the Byzantine Empire which revolved around Christianity, Greek Language and Civilization, and Roman law. It was a powerful force in the Mediterranean basin for centuries, engaging in trade, politics, and the spread of Christianity. The empire collaborated with Rome during the Crusades against the Muslims. However, during the 13th century, the Crusaders turned on the Byzantine Empire itself and sacked Constantinople. With a weakened Byzantine Empire, Frankish and Latin invaders arrived and occupied various parts of Greece. Over the following centuries, the Byzantine Empire began to regain strength and reconquer lost territory, but received a final blow in the 15th century when a growing Ottoman Turkish Empire to the east conquered Constantinople.

Arrival of Christianity and rise of Byzantine Empire

Christianity arrived in Greece with the preachings of St. Paul during the 1st century AD, and eventually spread throughout Greece and the Roman Empire. In the 4th century, Roman Emperor Constantine the Great legalized Christian worship and declared it the state religion of the empire. He moved the capital of the empire from Rome to Byzantium (present-day Istanbul), which he renamed Constantinople. Internal divisions eventually divided the Roman Empire into a western half (the West Roman Empire) and an eastern half (East Roman Empire.) The West was eventually invaded and sacked by invaders from northern Europe, while the East survived for another millennium as the Byzantine Empire with Constantinople as its capital.

Modern Greece

Greece joined the European Community or EC in 1981, which later became the European Union (EU) in 1992. The country's tourism industry – which had begun to take off during the 1960s – began to flourish, bringing 5 million annual visitors to the country in 1980 (a figure that will eventually grow to over 17 million by 2007). The country suffered serious economic stagnation in the 1980s, but began to experience remarkable economic growth in the 1990s, fueled by heavy investment, entrepreneurship, trade, and EU aid. By the early 21st century, the Greeks have achieved a stable and prosperous nation, with a high standard of living. An influx of immigrants began in the late 1980s, transforming Greece, once an immigrant-sender, into an immigrant-receiving country. Foreign-born residents, most of them undocumented and coming from various parts of the world (Eastern and Central Europe, Middle East, South and Southeast Asia, and Africa) are estimated to number at least 1 million, or equivalent to 10% of the population. In 2004, the nation stepped into the global spotlight as it successfully hosted the Summer Olympic Games in Athens, to the defiance of critics. More recently, it has borne the brunt of the late-2000s recession and related 2010 European sovereign debt crisis. The main issues facing Greek society are a high and growing level of bureaucratic corruption, high unemployment, sluggish economic growth and widespread poverty.

Climate of Greece

Despite its small size, Greece has a varied climate.

Most of the country, including all coastal areas, enjoys a so-called Mediterranean climate, almost identical to much of California. Summers are hot and dry with a 7-month period of near-constant sunshine generally from April until November. The remainder of the year is characterized by a relatively cold, rainy period which generally starts sometime in November and lasts until late March or early April. Sporadic rains do occur during the dry season, but they tend to be rare, quick showers. The country’s Ionian Coast and Ionian Islands tend to receive more annual precipitation than the rest of the country. The islands in the southern Aegean and parts of the southeastern mainland are the driest areas of the country.

The most pleasant weather occurs in May-June and September-October. The warmest time of the year starts in mid-July and generally lasts until mid-August, when the annual meltémi winds from the north cool the country. Mid-July to mid-August is the height of summer, and the midday sun tends to get very strong; during this time, most Greeks avoid heavy physical activity outdoors between 1PM and 5PM. It is best advised to get in tune with the local way of life by waking up early, doing all sightseeing and errands in the cool morning hours, and then spending the afternoon in the relaxing shade or at the beach. In fact, the bulk of tourists arrive in Greece during the height of summer, to do just that! For visitors from more northerly climates, the off season from November through February can be a rewarding time to see Greece. It will not be beach weather, but temperatures are mild. The much added bonus is that there will be very few other tourists and reduced prices.

Summer evenings tend to be very rewarding. As strong as the sun may get on a summer afternoon, the low levels of atmospheric humidity in most areas of the country prevent the air from trapping much heat, and temperatures tend to dip to very pleasant levels in the evenings. But even during midday, high temperatures actually tend to be quite comfortable as long as the time is not spent doing a lot of walking or other physical activity. (Athens, however, can still be uncomfortably warm during summer afternoons due to the predominance of concrete in the city, an effect similar to New York City.) Coastal areas near open waters (away from tightly-closed bays and gulfs), especially on many of the islands, tend to be quite breezy, and can be quite cold at night.

While the Mediterranean climate characterizes most of the country, two other climate systems are present. One is the cool Alpine climate which is found on mountainous areas of the country's interior, including many high-altitude valleys. Another system is the Continental climate found on the interiors of north-central and northeastern Greece, and gives those areas very cold winters and warm, relatively humid summers.